Arrival Bahia Tortuga 9:30 AM
Today I had the last watch before arriving in Turtle Bay. We were tired when we left our last anchorage at Bahia del Rosario. We had wanted to hide out from 6/7 foot waves there and ended up anchoring in a spot, which shook Radu awake all night, my cereal jumped off the table and Samba wasn’t able to walk through the cabin. To cook we had to put the stove on it’s gimbal, it was that rocky.
So, we left tired for a 25 hour passage to Bahia de Tortuga, Turtle Bay, and started watch shifts right after we left. I went below to sleep first and then it was Radu’s turn. We went as long as we could, to let the other get more rest. My watches were 12-15, 18-21, 0-4 and 6:30-9. We used the head sail to reign in the little wind there was and to add speed to the engine speed. And we surfed the waves again 6 feet or higher speeding past us. This time they were right behind us rushing us forward, sometimes raising our speed to 9 knots from our normal engine cruising speed of around 6 knots. The Imagine was flying and surfing and was having fun like a race horse finally allowed to perform. As much as I wish we could have used only sails without the engine, I know now that I wouldn’t want to sail her faster than 9 knots. I love roller coasters rides and speed. I trust the Imagine with her full keel and 6.5 tons of led in the lowest part of it, which makes her heavy enough not to lift off. This was fun surfing the waves all night!
Tiredness heightens the senses and the midnight watch was exciting. A nearly full moon shone on the big waves, the breaking foam and the head sail blown out over the bow like a spinnaker. Fabulous. We are still getting used to the rhythm of long passages, but how glorious it is to be out at all times of the day and night!
I especially love arriving in a new harbor or bay in the morning hours. The morning light tints the water, sky and landscape in the most tender pastel colors. What lovely first impression. While approaching turtle bay this morning, I was thinking how this ancient way to approach a continent is nowadays replaced with seeing an airport first. I always want to sit in an airplane at the window so that I can see the city I am flying into. There are most stunning views from the air, but standing on the side deck of the Imagine, wind in my face, arriving after a night at sea is magic!
After the anchor is set and the anchor alarm is activated, we usually have breakfast and tend to the boat. On deck, organizing the lines, putting the dinghy (our car) in the water and below deck putting things back in their places, which were stored in the v-berth in front of the boat. We are developing a ritual in how we prepare the boat and and leave only the foul weather gear and things we need during passage in the cabin and the captain’s berth is set up for sleeping. Radu usually cooks a pot of something yummy we can warm up under way and I organize things for easy access. We have encountered some bigger seas and swells already and getting around in those in the cabin is quiet a feat. Luckily we have a grab rail the whole length of the cabin at 5′, our shoulder height, from which we hang like monkeys not to fly around and possibly hit ourselves. Waves can hit anytime without warning and send you flying!
Today as we entered the little Puerto San Bartolome, a punga approached us to ask if we needed fuel. We said “manjana” and he said “majana manjana, because tomorrow is Sunday and he is not working. This is catholic Mexico and many in this community of 5000 gather at church at 9 am. So he came back again, knowing that any boat coming through here needs fuel, as the next fuel available is either north in Ensenada (286 nm, 48 hours at 6 knots) or 258 nm or 43 hours south at Bahia Magdalena. Few vessels have 100/150 gallon diesel tanks. We carry 40 gallons of diesel in tanks and 30 gallons in jerry cans on deck. The remoteness of this village shows also in the price: $5 a gallon but at a very good exchange rate for hard dollars. Sailing just got even more attractive! Though they do have the most beautiful gas station I have been to… a gas station with incredible views of the surrounding rough beauty of beaches and desert landscapes.
The bay is lit tonight by a deep yellow full moon, fishing boats preparing to leave for long trips and the flood lights of a fiesta. The faint sounds of a mariachi band and Saturday night buzz are muffled by waves breaking on cliffs nearby. There isn’t any swell and the bay is peaceful. We will sleep, finally, explore the small town tomorrow, hunt fresh vegetables and catch up on rest also tomorrow before heading out on Monday to our next stops in remote bays down Baja.